Thom Browne Sees Dead People
01.01.70
What I doubt Mr. Browne was getting at was that he is a designer whose creations are not intended for mortal consumption. They are the poppycock of dreams. His construction and showmanship are certainly awe inspiring, this season including a figure up of amorphously-shaped designs that appeared to be nods to the greats, the likes of Rei Kawakubo, Jean Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto.
Several of his dresses, custom-made like straightjackets, were padded with conical bras and quilted cones that protruded from the shoulders, backside and hips. Dresses in his signature gray checks, flannels and jacquards were made of layers of folded-over fabrics hand open in the back, though they allowed little natural movement. A spectacular wish-sleeved column of sequins and mirrored squares required the miniature to take mincing steps as she navigated this particular graveyard.
But there were touches of humor. A cartoonish fox tippet was made of gray flannel in the shape of a fox, with its arms and tail extending around the example. At the end, there was a white coat with its tail dragging along the ground, covered in stuff the clergy spikes, which reminded me of Mr. Yamamoto’s collection for spring 2006, which also ended with a dinosaur cover. Unless I was just dreaming.
Source: New York Times (blog)